Is your deck looking worn and tired? Are you unsure whether to resurface or rebuild? Then keep reading. A deck showing signs of age doesn't always need a full replacement. If your deck's foundation and framing are structurally sound, resurfacing is often the most cost-effective solution.
Look for signs like worn boards, splinters, or cosmetic damage while checking that the underlying structure remains solid. This approach lets you update your deck's appearance without the expense of a complete rebuild.
Check for rot, unstable posts, or wobbly railings that might indicate deeper structural problems. For decks with only surface-level wear, refinishing with a good cleaning and fresh stain or sealant can breathe new life into your outdoor space while saving time and money compared to starting from scratch.
Assessing Your Deck's Condition
Determining whether your deck needs resurfacing starts with a thorough inspection, and regular assessments help catch problems early before they become expensive repairs.
Identifying Signs of Wear
Water pooling on your deck surface after rain is often the first warning sign of trouble, as this indicates the boards may have lost their ability to shed water properly. Look for visible mold or mildew growth, too, these organisms accelerate wood decay and create slippery surfaces. Black or green spots on your deck boards require immediate attention.
Check for splintering or cracking wood by running your hand carefully over the surface - if you feel rough patches or catch splinters, the wood is deteriorating. Discoloration beyond normal weathering often signals underlying issues. Gray wood indicates UV damage, while darkened areas may show water damage or rot beginning to take hold.
Examining Joists and Deck Screws
Examine the structural components beneath your deck, especially the joists, the horizontal framing members that support your deck boards. Press firmly on suspicious areas with a screwdriver. If the tool easily penetrates the wood, you've found rot. Check multiple spots on each joist, especially where they connect to the ledger board attached to your house.
Look for sagging or uneven areas between joists as this indicates structural weakening that requires immediate attention. Next, inspect deck screws and fasteners for rust, looseness, or popping. Rusty hardware weakens over time and can fail suddenly. Tighten loose connections and replace any corroded hardware.
Evaluating Deck Surface and Decking Boards
Individual decking boards often reveal whether simple refinishing will suffice or if replacement is necessary.
Signs boards need replacement:
- Soft spots when pressed with a screwdriver
- Visible rot or fungal growth
- Warping or cupping that creates trip hazards
- Cracks longer than 1/4 of the board length
- Boards that feel spongy when walking on them
Check board ends where they meet, as these areas collect moisture and deteriorate faster. Try the "quarter test" on suspicious boards. Insert a quarter into gaps or cracks—if it slides in more than 1/4 inch, decay has likely compromised the board's integrity. Replace any board with more than 20% damage, as partial repairs often lead to ongoing problems.
Preparing for Resurfacing
Proper preparation is essential for a successful deck resurfacing project. The right prep work ensures better adhesion of new finishes and extends the life of your deck.
Cleaning and Pressure Washing
Before resurfacing, thoroughly clean the deck surface, removing all furniture, planters, and decorations, then sweeping away loose debris like leaves and dirt. A pressure washer is the most effective tool for deep cleaning. Set it to 1500-2000 PSI to avoid damaging the wood fibers, and hold the nozzle at least 12 inches from the surface and move in the direction of the wood grain.
For stubborn stains or mildew, apply a deck cleaner before pressure washing. These cleaners break down dirt, grease, and biological growth that simple water can't remove. Let the deck dry completely for 48-72 hours after washing, as trapped moisture can cause problems with new finishes and may lead to mold growth under sealed surfaces.
Stripping Old Stain and Paint
Removing old finishes is crucial if they're peeling or worn, so apply a deck stripper with a pump sprayer or roller, working in small sections of about 20 square feet. Allow the stripper to sit for 15-30 minutes, but don't let it dry completely. The product needs to remain wet to dissolve the old finish.
Next, use a stiff brush or scraper to remove loosened paint or stain, working with the grain to avoid damaging the wood. For stubborn areas, a second application may be necessary. Rinse thoroughly with clean water after stripping. Some deck strippers contain chemicals that can interfere with new finishes if not completely removed.
Sanding the Surface
Sanding creates a smooth, even surface for new finishes to adhere to. It also removes any remaining peeling finish that stripping missed. Begin with coarse-grit sandpaper (60-80 grit) to remove major imperfections. An orbital sander works well for large areas, while hand sanding is better for railings and tight spaces.
Progress to medium-grit (100-120) for the final smoothing, always sanding in the direction of the wood grain to prevent cross-grain scratches that might show through your finish. Pay special attention to splintered areas and board edges, as these spots need extra sanding to ensure safety and a professional appearance.
Thoroughly clean all sanding dust before applying new finishes. A shop vacuum followed by a tack cloth works best for removing fine particles that can ruin your new surface.
Choosing Materials and Tools
Selecting the right materials and tools is crucial for a successful deck resurfacing project. The choices you make will impact both the appearance and longevity of your deck, as well as how much maintenance it will require in the future.
Selecting Deck Stain or Paint
When choosing a deck stain or paint, consider the level of protection and appearance you want. Transparent stains allow wood grain to show through but offer minimal protection, while semi-transparent stains provide moderate protection while still showcasing wood texture.
Solid stains and paints offer maximum protection from UV rays and moisture but hide the wood grain completely. Many professionals recommend water-based products for easier application and cleanup.
Best stains for different wood types:
- Cedar/Redwood: Oil-based semi-transparent stains
- Treated wood: Water-based semi-transparent stains
- Weathered wood: Solid stains or paints
Top tips:
- Test your stain in a small area first.
- Most decks need 1-2 gallons of stain per 250 square feet.
- Apply when temperatures are between 50-90°F for best results.
Comparing Wood and Composite Deck Boards
Wood deck boards remain popular due to their natural beauty and lower initial cost. Pressure-treated lumber costs $2-$5 per square foot and resists rot and insects but requires regular maintenance. Cedar and redwood ($6-$8 per square foot) contain natural oils that resist decay but gray over time without treatment.
Composite deck boards like Trex offer significant advantages for resurfacing:
- Virtually maintenance-free (no staining/sealing)
- Resistant to fading, staining, and scratching
- Available in various colors and textures
- Longer lifespan (25+ years vs. 10-15 for wood)
The higher upfront cost of composite ($8-$12 per square foot) is often offset by lower long-term maintenance costs. Many composite options use recycled materials, making them eco-friendly.
Deciding on Tools for DIY Project
A DIY deck resurfacing project requires specific tools to ensure quality results.
Essential deck resurfacing tools:
- Pressure washer (1500-2000 PSI) for cleaning
- Orbital sander with 60-80 grit sandpaper
- Pry bar for removing old boards
- Drill/driver with bits for screws
- Tape measure and chalk line
- Level (2-foot and 4-foot)
For cutting boards, a circular saw works well for straight cuts, while a jigsaw handles curves and notches around posts. Hidden fastening systems create a cleaner look for composite decks. But for wood decks, use stainless steel or coated deck screws to prevent rust stains. Consider renting specialized tools like a floor sander if your deck is large.
The Resurfacing Process
Deck resurfacing involves replacing the visible parts of your deck while keeping the underlying structure. This DIY project can save you money compared to a full rebuild while giving your outdoor space a fresh new look.
Repairing or Replacing Posts and Balusters
Before attaching new decking, inspect and repair the supporting structure. Check all posts for rot, especially where they contact the ground, and replace any posts showing signs of decay or structural weakness.
Balusters (the vertical supports for railings) often need replacement during resurfacing. Remove damaged balusters by unscrewing or carefully prying them loose. Then, measure them precisely before cutting replacements to ensure they match your railing height requirements.
When installing new balusters, space them according to local building codes—typically no more than 4 inches apart. This spacing prevents children from getting stuck between them. Use galvanized or stainless steel fasteners that won't rust and compromise your deck's integrity.
Attaching New Decking
Once the structure is sound, remove old boards carefully to avoid damaging the joists underneath. Then, measure and cut your new decking boards to fit your deck's dimensions. Leave a 1/8" gap between boards for drainage and expansion. This small space prevents warping and water damage.
Installation tips:
- Use deck screws rather than nails for a more secure hold
- Pre-drill holes near board ends to prevent splitting
- Keep boards consistent with 1/16" to 1/8" spacing
- Start from the outer edge and work toward the house
For a professional finish, use a chalk line to ensure straight rows of decking. This simple tool helps maintain uniform appearance across the entire surface.
Applying Stain and Sealant
After installing new decking, allow the wood to weather for 30 days before applying stain. This weathering period helps the wood absorb the stain more effectively. Clean the deck thoroughly with a deck cleaner to remove dirt, mildew, and mill glaze, rinse completely, and let it dry for 48 hours before staining.
Apply stain with a brush, roller, or pad applicator following the wood grain, working in small sections to maintain a wet edge and prevent lap marks. For best protection, apply two thin coats rather than one thick coat. After staining, allow proper drying time before placing furniture on your newly resurfaced deck.
Get in touch to discuss your options for your current decking or arrange a new installation to improve your outdoor space.
